Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Monday, July 15, 13 11:15pm Arusha, Tanzania


What a whirlwind of a day!  But let’s recap last night.   My flight arrived into Dar Es Salaam and our fabulous tour guide, Joyce, met me at the airport and escorted me to the Serena Dar Es Salaam hotel.  Being that it was 9:30 when we arrived I didn’t get an idea for the town.  Dinner with Adina and Sara (See Sadie Smile Foundation) then a shower and it was bedtime for me.

Sue, from the UK - me -
Sara, from Virginia!
7am came and my natural caffeine had me hopping out of bed, dressed, and downstairs for breakfast where I got to meet Sue from the UK – an amazing person who has climbed Kilimanjaro and is training to climb Everest – all for charity as she has a son who was born with a cleft.  Kristen and MaryAnn, the sisters from upstate NY as well as Lori & Bill had all gotten a chance to meet each other at the welcome dinner the night before. 

Our Smile Train Africa program managers, Dr. Gitahi, Dr. Ester, and Jane were ready to hit the road.  Around 8:30 we made it out into town and my first impression was that it was more lush than I expected.  Palm trees and other shorter shade trees provided the backdrop for a very busy town.  Cabs and buses beeping, people crossing the street whenever they needed, kids going to school, wagons being pulled selling everything you can imagine.  At one stoplight we were greeted by a parade of vendors selling brooms, soccer balls, coffee mugs, cashews, apples, you get the idea. 

With Brenda from CCBRT
As we made our way to the hospital, CCBRT, we passed the water – this is a beautiful waterside community but I was reminded that since it was a Monday and a school day the beach would be empty.  Upon arriving to CCBRT we were greeted by Susan, from the Netherlands, Brenda, and Abdul to guide us.  There was an amazing presentation educating us about what CCBRT (Comprehensive Community Based Rehabilitation in Tanzania) does on a daily basis, the medical and social issues they solve, and the creative programs they’ve implemented to draw more people into the hospital to treat clefts.  Now they don’t just do cleft surgery – they also do eyes, orthopedics, prosthetics, and fistula (a very serious and often times ostracizing casualty of long child birth).  It was eye opening to see the parents and children sitting around waiting to be checked in, seen by Dr., or waiting for their child to come out of surgery. 

One of the wards we went through had 6 children (maybe more) born with clefts.  The one that stands out the most to me were twin baby girls 4-months old.  Only one twin had the cleft and what a blessing that her parents heard of Smile Train.  There was baby Janice, 1 year old, who was more than happy to hug on the stuffed giraffe I took, and so many other children that were shy at first but excited for a toy.  I would say a ‘new’ toy but to most of these kids they don’t have toys like our kids do, much less shoes. 

There were a few amazing fathers there with their children as the mother left them after the birth of their baby born with a cleft.  These dads lit up when Sue showed pictures of her son as an infant before surgery and now as a 5th grader.  Knowing that this wasn’t just something that was happening to them here but around the world must have helped them somehow.  One precious girl actually had a cleft but also a hole in her head – I don’t know how else to put it.  Where her nose was there was an open cavity and you could see right into her skull.  She was there for nose reconstruction and, in time, many more surgeries.  We saw babies with hydrocephaly, clubfoot, as well as one baby born with no fingers on her left hand.  When you discover one issue, another follows behind it. 

Walking through the wards felt a bit uncomfortable with our crowd (6 tourists, 3 Smile Train people, 3 photographers, tour guide, and CCBRT staffer) as it felt like we were invading their space.  There was such a sense of community among these people that I wish I could have been able to converse with them more than just saying “ashante” – thank you.

Moving on we were able to sit in on a surgery, Sue and I.  Sue was able to see Zahara (age 9) as she was being taken in and speak to her mom via translator to let her know that she understood.  Zahara’s surgery was fascinating to watch.  The surgery itself took no more than 20-30minutes and her life was forever changed.  The Dr. that did the surgery worked with the skill of…. well… a surgeon who has done this countless times.  His efficiency and dexterity was inspiring, I would love to be able to do that! 

The surgery itself was amazing – the most eye opening was their surgical center.  After being in there I wonder, do we over do a little bit in the US?  Yes we do have amazing healthcare but we are such a litigious society – is the reason for so many precautions out of fear of a lawsuit?  I think so, yes, but there is a happy medium.  These Drs. and nurses make the most of what they have available and change lives doing what they love.  They have a gift and they are certainly using it to its fullest.

After the hospital we made our way to meet Hassan, a bright eyed 6-year old boy who had his surgery last year.  He lives with his mom (she fries dough) and his dad (a taxi driver) in a house that is 1 room and about the size of Polly’s bedroom.  Mama Hassan was all smiles and more than happy to let us see her home, she would have made us tea but they assured her we didn’t have time and there were too many of us.  She led us to Hassan’s school where we got to meet his classmates – and you know what – Kindergarteners are the same in every country.  Smiley, wiggly, energetic balls of kindness.  Sue had brought a bag of toys, coloring books, big-block Legos, Frisbees, jump ropes, beach balls, etc. so we took those out and played with the kids. 

With a friend of Hassan's at
their school
I was fortunate to have been able to give Hassan a race medal, which he seemed to wear with pride – calling out how special he was.  There was also another little boy looking at the toy football I was holding so I pulled him to the front of the room and we practiced tossing the ball and catching it.  Then we got the beach ball and I showed him how light and bouncy that was so we played a bit of catch. If I could have had my choice we would have just stayed there and gotten a game of kick ball or soccer going with the kids but we had to move on. 

Sabina (middle between Sara and me)
with her neice and nephew
Lunch at a quick pizza joint was followed by a truly eye-opening experience as we drove to the slums of Dar just behind the airport fence.  There we met Sabina, a 14-16 (she doesn’t really know how old she is) girl living with her Auntie as her mom left her and her father passed away.  She is not in school and stays home and cares for her niece and nephew (both 4-5 years of age.  She will never go to school and right now has no trade, it would cost $2000 to send her to trade school which is unimaginable.  Their house is a room barely big enough for the queen size bed that they all 4 sleep on together, a nightstand, and a cabinet for their belongings.  There is no door, just a cloth across the front.  Water is brought in with buckets from a common spigot in the center of their area.  About 4 rooms are in their building and outside the front area is a small cooking patio – about 20’ x 6’ where many of the ladies cook together.  Just across from their cooking area is the community washroom.  There is no running water, no electricity, just happy children eager to see us and color, hard working families doing anything they can to get by. 

After our visit with Sabina we went right to the airport and by 10pm we were in Arusha approaching our hotel.  What a contrast our hotel is.  Sara said it best in that the hotel where we are is Africa as seen in the movies and children’s books.  It is very manufactured.  We feel like what we saw today was truly Africa – the poverty, the hard work doing anything (frying dough) to get by, and the contentedness with so little without expecting anyone to help them get more.  That is the reality in Africa for so many. 

I would love to live here but I think the only way I could live here was IF I could have a job somewhere like CCBRT where you know that what you are doing on a daily basis is changing someone’s life.  I can’t wait to get home and show my children what I saw, how these people lived, and how not one of the people we saw at the hospital or in the slums held out their hand asking for anything.   I want, I want, I want… as my kids know my answer to “I want….” is always “wanting gets you nothing”.  

Right now I want to simplify, I want to give more to help, I want to make sure that every day of my life is spent doing something for someone else – as much as I can.  Giving to someone deserving is the best feeling in the world.  Tomorrow is another day full of adventure.  Night night.

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