Monday, July 15, 13 11:15pm Arusha, Tanzania

What a whirlwind of a day!  But let’s recap last night.   My flight arrived into Dar Es Salaam and our fabulous tour guide, Joyce, met me at the airport and escorted me to the Serena Dar Es Salaam hotel.  Being that it was 9:30 when we arrived I didn’t get an idea for the town.  Dinner with Adina and Sara (See Sadie Smile Foundation) then a shower and it was bedtime for me.

Sue, from the UK - me -
Sara, from Virginia!

7am came and my natural caffeine had me hopping out of bed, dressed, and downstairs for breakfast where I got to meet Sue from the UK – an amazing person who has climbed Kilimanjaro and is training to climb Everest – all for charity as she has a son who was born with a cleft.  Kristen and MaryAnn, the sisters from upstate NY as well as Lori & Bill had all gotten a chance to meet each other at the welcome dinner the night before. 

Our Smile Train Africa program managers, Dr. Gitahi, Dr. Ester, and Jane were ready to hit the road.  Around 8:30 we made it out into town and my first impression was that it was more lush than I expected.  Palm trees and other shorter shade trees provided the backdrop for a very busy town.  Cabs and buses beeping, people crossing the street whenever they needed, kids going to school, wagons being pulled selling everything you can imagine.  At one stoplight we were greeted by a parade of vendors selling brooms, soccer balls, coffee mugs, cashews, apples, you get the idea. 

With Brenda from CCBRT

As we made our way to the hospital, CCBRT, we passed the water – this is a beautiful waterside community but I was reminded that since it was a Monday and a school day the beach would be empty.  Upon arriving to CCBRT we were greeted by Susan, from the Netherlands, Brenda, and Abdul to guide us.  There was an amazing presentation educating us about what CCBRT (Comprehensive Community Based Rehabilitation in Tanzania) does on a daily basis, the medical and social issues they solve, and the creative programs they’ve implemented to draw more people into the hospital to treat clefts.  Now they don’t just do cleft surgery – they also do eyes, orthopedics, prosthetics, and fistula (a very serious and often times ostracizing casualty of long child birth).  It was eye opening to see the parents and children sitting around waiting to be checked in, seen by Dr., or waiting for their child to come out of surgery. 

One of the wards we went through had 6 children (maybe more) born with clefts.  The one that stands out the most to me were twin baby girls 4-months old.  Only one twin had the cleft and what a blessing that her parents heard of Smile Train.  There was baby Janice, 1 year old, who was more than happy to hug on the stuffed giraffe I took, and so many other children that were shy at first but excited for a toy.  I would say a ‘new’ toy but to most of these kids they don’t have toys like our kids do, much less shoes. 

There were a few amazing fathers there with their children as the mother left them after the birth of their baby born with a cleft.  These dads lit up when Sue showed pictures of her son as an infant before surgery and now as a 5th grader.  Knowing that this wasn’t just something that was happening to them here but around the world must have helped them somehow.  One precious girl actually had a cleft but also a hole in her head – I don’t know how else to put it.  Where her nose was there was an open cavity and you could see right into her skull.  She was there for nose reconstruction and, in time, many more surgeries.  We saw babies with hydrocephaly, clubfoot, as well as one baby born with no fingers on her left hand.  When you discover one issue, another follows behind it. 

Walking through the wards felt a bit uncomfortable with our crowd (6 tourists, 3 Smile Train people, 3 photographers, tour guide, and CCBRT staffer) as it felt like we were invading their space.  There was such a sense of community among these people that I wish I could have been able to converse with them more than just saying “ashante” – thank you.

Moving on we were able to sit in on a surgery, Sue and I.  Sue was able to see Zahara (age 9) as she was being taken in and speak to her mom via translator to let her know that she understood.  Zahara’s surgery was fascinating to watch.  The surgery itself took no more than 20-30minutes and her life was forever changed.  The Dr. that did the surgery worked with the skill of…. well… a surgeon who has done this countless times.  His efficiency and dexterity was inspiring, I would love to be able to do that! 

The surgery itself was amazing – the most eye opening was their surgical center.  After being in there I wonder, do we over do a little bit in the US?  Yes we do have amazing healthcare but we are such a litigious society – is the reason for so many precautions out of fear of a lawsuit?  I think so, yes, but there is a happy medium.  These Drs. and nurses make the most of what they have available and change lives doing what they love.  They have a gift and they are certainly using it to its fullest.

After the hospital we made our way to meet Hassan, a bright eyed 6-year old boy who had his surgery last year.  He lives with his mom (she fries dough) and his dad (a taxi driver) in a house that is 1 room and about the size of Polly’s bedroom.  Mama Hassan was all smiles and more than happy to let us see her home, she would have made us tea but they assured her we didn’t have time and there were too many of us.  She led us to Hassan’s school where we got to meet his classmates – and you know what – Kindergarteners are the same in every country.  Smiley, wiggly, energetic balls of kindness.  Sue had brought a bag of toys, coloring books, big-block Legos, Frisbees, jump ropes, beach balls, etc. so we took those out and played with the kids. 

With a friend of Hassan's at
their school

I was fortunate to have been able to give Hassan a race medal, which he seemed to wear with pride – calling out how special he was.  There was also another little boy looking at the toy football I was holding so I pulled him to the front of the room and we practiced tossing the ball and catching it.  Then we got the beach ball and I showed him how light and bouncy that was so we played a bit of catch. If I could have had my choice we would have just stayed there and gotten a game of kick ball or soccer going with the kids but we had to move on. 

Sabina (middle between Sara and me)
with her neice and nephew

Lunch at a quick pizza joint was followed by a truly eye-opening experience as we drove to the slums of Dar just behind the airport fence.  There we met Sabina, a 14-16 (she doesn’t really know how old she is) girl living with her Auntie as her mom left her and her father passed away.  She is not in school and stays home and cares for her niece and nephew (both 4-5 years of age.  She will never go to school and right now has no trade, it would cost $2000 to send her to trade school which is unimaginable.  Their house is a room barely big enough for the queen size bed that they all 4 sleep on together, a nightstand, and a cabinet for their belongings.  There is no door, just a cloth across the front.  Water is brought in with buckets from a common spigot in the center of their area.  About 4 rooms are in their building and outside the front area is a small cooking patio – about 20’ x 6’ where many of the ladies cook together.  Just across from their cooking area is the community washroom.  There is no running water, no electricity, just happy children eager to see us and color, hard working families doing anything they can to get by. 

After our visit with Sabina we went right to the airport and by 10pm we were in Arusha approaching our hotel.  What a contrast our hotel is.  Sara said it best in that the hotel where we are is Africa as seen in the movies and children’s books.  It is very manufactured.  We feel like what we saw today was truly Africa – the poverty, the hard work doing anything (frying dough) to get by, and the contentedness with so little without expecting anyone to help them get more.  That is the reality in Africa for so many. 

I would love to live here but I think the only way I could live here was IF I could have a job somewhere like CCBRT where you know that what you are doing on a daily basis is changing someone’s life.  I can’t wait to get home and show my children what I saw, how these people lived, and how not one of the people we saw at the hospital or in the slums held out their hand asking for anything.   I want, I want, I want… as my kids know my answer to “I want….” is always “wanting gets you nothing”.  

Right now I want to simplify, I want to give more to help, I want to make sure that every day of my life is spent doing something for someone else – as much as I can.  Giving to someone deserving is the best feeling in the world.  Tomorrow is another day full of adventure.  Night night.

Sunday, Almost there!, July 20, 2013

8:30am Zurich time/2:30am Raleigh time

Long flight, uncomfortable seats but good movies!  I had no idea they had new movie selections so I never had to pull out my iPad once during the flight.  I’m up to date on Identity Theft (mediocre and I LOVE Jason Bateman, by the way) and Admission (just ehhhh…).  It was nice for a few hours the lights were turned off and I could pretend to take a nap but then right about midnight CST the lights were on and cheese-toast was served.  My blanket promptly went over my head and I zoned out for as long as I could.  When that didn’t work, The Host was the next movie on my list. 

While I was sitting at the airport in Toronto having sushi for dinner I chatted with a gal who had been to Tanzania and was on her way to Nairobi, Kenya and she knew about Operation Smile, which is NOT the same thing as Smile Train but still another wonderful charity working to eradicate and educate about cleft lips in these poor areas.

After deplaning in Zurich I had to go through security again and I think our TSA agents could take notes from the agents here. No taking off shoes, no pulling liquids out of bags, just laptops and iPads came out.  They couldn’t have been more pleasant. 

So I’m already realizing how much of an ‘American’ I am.  Only speaking one language and essentially never having left the continental US.  Everyone here speaks multiple languages including the kids.  I felt for the parents flying with little kids on our flight but wow – to be able to give your kids the opportunity to travel, or better yet LIVE overseas (Shillings burgs, Bentleys, way to go!!) is such a huge gift.  It may be inconvenient for a little while but the exposure can surely outweigh the tiresome flight.  And here I am only having experienced this from people watching in the airports J

My only big oops so far on my travel is walking into the men’s room in the Zurich airport.  The sign said toilets and I didn’t notice the picture of the guy/gal on the sign.  Sorry to the one guy – hopefully he didn’t see me.  I just made sure I stayed in the ladies room long enough to not pass him in the hallway. 

Swiss Air just made an announcement offering a cash card worth $750US if we offered to go to Dar via Istanbul.  Tempting but I’m ready to get to Africa and start the real adventure outside of the airports!

Toronto, Saturday, July 13, 2013

2:50pm

I’m already tired and it’s only the first day away… it could be from the 3 hours of non-stop walking around downtown Toronto.  I took a shuttle downtown (so easy!) and walked down to the water.  It was beautiful!  There was an outdoor art exhibit near the Harbor and they were setting up for a cool outdoor festival too.  

I did notice one thing… perhaps they don’t have Target here because the logo for the Harbour and Target are the same! 

Next sight to see was the CN tower and the sports arena.  I was surprised at how many residences there were in downtown Toronto – actually, Toronto reminded me quite a bit of NYC without the mess, homeless people, and crazy cab drivers!  I made my way to City Hall where there was a Taste of Thai going on – super neat but I didn’t want to eat any crazy food.  Right before I begin 17 hours of flying is not the time to experiment with new foods.   

While I was walking I noticed a big castle looking building, it was the Queen’s Park so I made my way up there.   A very small parade was going on – not sure what it was for but there were many marching bands, some bagpipe guys, an aging drum major twirling his drum major staff thingy, and lots of people wearing Orange.  The thing that stood out the most to me was how clean the downtown was.  I didn’t see one single person begging or panhandling – it was very nice!  The strangest thing I saw a full Italian restaurant in Toronto’s China-town.  It made me smile.

So by 2pm I was back at the Toronto Airport with hours to kill so it’s time for some quality American filmmaking.  The thing I already miss the most?  ICE!  Everyone around here drinks things without ice or sells bottled beverages – I just want some ice to crunch on.  Is that an American thing?

Toronto... first impressions... I want to live here!

8:50am eh!

Made it to Canada, eh, and the short flight from Raleigh to Toronto was another great start.   I sat next to a very interesting mand named Jeff Seymour who is a Financial Planner in Cary, has published a book (Greedomoter) and has been on CNBC and the Canadian version (BCC or something like that).  Anyway, we had a very enlightened discussion, using that term loosely as he did most of the talking, about the current state of our economic system and the markets.  Once again reconfirming my desire to go anywhere but here is not to far from a good idea.  I love America but I don’t love our economic policies that have led us to our current sad state from a monetary/budget/economy perspective.  But enough of that… this is not ‘that kind’ of post. 

Our flight attendant, Fredreich, was incredibly friendly and able to help us in English, French, German and Swiss German – I didn’t even know there was a langue called Swiss German!  Regardless, he gave me a list of places to go downtown, things to see, places to eat and how to get there.  He even gave me his email address so I could send him a message if I had any questions.  I can’t wait to explore downtown Toronto. 

As I get off the plane and go through customs they ask me how long I’m here – only about 10 hours for coffee and a book store, as I told the sweet customs agent, even though I don’t drink coffee.  Exit customs and my first impression of YYZ is how wll planned and organized it is.  The song playing over the sound system – nothing other than the Smiths/Morrissey – flash back to middle school with my friend Stacey Kayem and many weekends spent in Galveston with the Smiths and Violent Femmes. 

This is so out of my comfort zone and I love it.  I wish I had the nerve to take the bus and subway but I’m a bit of a fraidy cat when it comes to public transportation so I’m taking the shuttle downtown for a day of adventuring.  In an attempt to not look like a total tourist and to not look 2 years shy of 40, I have my iPod (from 2008) in my pocket, headphones in my ears, and my sunglasses on.  Here’s to never being too old to feel young and as my daughter has started saying… time to shine like the diamonds!

As a side note, and I’m sure there will be lots of them, this is going to be a stream of consiciousness so read at your own risk. It’s my blog and I don’t use it very much at all as you can tell from my last post years ago.  And apparently I forgot to clean off my playlists as I’m sitting typing listing to “Where are you Christmas” possibly from the kids Christmas playlist… so I’ll end with “Christmas is here, everywhere, if there is love in your heart and your mind you will feel like Christmas all the time”.  So true, I feel you Christmas today!  Today is a gift and I can’t wait to open it.

And I'm off! Africa here I come... via Toronto & Zurich

Preparing to go to Tanzania was easier than I thought!  The hardest part was figuring out what I was going to take for me that I could also give away when I got there.  So I am allowed to bring along 2 checked bags and 2 carry-ons which means that I needed to get all my personal stuff in one of my carry-ons so I could stuff, really overstuffed, 2 duffle bags with things to leave in Africa. 

So 2 months of cleaning out my clost, the kids closet, and Roy’s baby clothes I am waiting at the ticket counter to see if my bags made weight.  Let me also say that I did spend $20 on one of those suitcase weighing gadgets and I’m so glad I did.  My first bag – the monster green duffle weighed in at… 49.5 lbs which means I could have fit one more thing on there!  My other bag – 44lbs.  But really, there wasn’t room to spare on either bag.  When I return I hope that one of these bags is filled with treasures from Tanzania.  If you are in my family, just guess where I’m doing my Christmas shopping this year!

Now I’m not a big traveller – not because I don’t like to but I’ve just not had the opportunity.  The times I’ve left the US… does Nuevo Laredo, Mexico count across the Texas border?  No… I didn’t think so. Then we are left with 2 trips to Grand Cayman but they have Wendy’s, take US$, and there is a direct flight from Houston.  The only other time was going to St. Lucia back in 2001 when we went to a Sandals resort with Thane.  No passport needed then. I guess we can consider that this is my first international trip! 

Here’s to 30hours of travel.  I’m stocked with 2 magazines (Lucky & In Style) to be left on the airplane, a book in my hands (Cutting for Stone about a Dr. in Africa), a book on my iPad (Clan of the Cave Bear, part 2), and movies out the wazoo ; Bridesmaids, The Host, Safe Haven, the entire Twilight series, The Messenger, and one more I can’t think of.  Along with that is my iPod filled with music and my phone completely empty to allow for as many pictures as possible.

Back to the airport – security was busy but I guess a Saturday morning departure is pretty popular in the summer.  I saw Chris & Christina and their son as they headed out of town too!  Always nice to see friends you know at the airport but even more special to see Chris as last year he did my race and had a hard day and a crazy year.  It was wonderful to see his smile and to see him enjoying life with his beautiful wife and son.  A great send off from the US and I go to Toronto.

First stop, Toronto from 7:45am – 6:10pm – that is a 10 hour layover!  I looked into tours, hotels, fun runs, etc. but I’m not committed to doing anything.  I may just get there and find a book store and read and people watch in Canada, eh!  After Toronto it’s an overnight to Zurich then a short stop there until we take another long flight to Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania arriving at 8:30am Tanzania time (or as my son says it Tan-ZANE-ia).

Hugs to my family!  I'll miss you!

Turning Miles into Smiles is growing

I'm so excited that this year my little fundraising program, Turning Miles into Smiles, will be growing to produce The Smile Train Triathlon as well as The Buddy Run 5K.

I got an offer this past week to take The Smile Train Tri on the road to Columbia, SC in 2010. I'm so tempted to do it because this is why I started this race - to spread the word. But with any opportunity, there is risk. What if I don't get enough sponsor money, what if it takes too much time from my kids, what if, what if, what if.... Of course - my husband is a horrible 'what-ifer' so that doesn't help.

I don't have to decide today but this is a big step. So far my premise for Miles into Smiles has been to send 100% of the registration fee directly to a charity that will use the money immediately to change lives. This requires A LOT of sponsor money for each race - about $15,000 for the Columbia race. If you know anyone who has a spare $K, send them my way!

Decisions, decisions, decisions....